Winter has finally come and I found myself needing a hat for exceptionally bad weather. My wife had sewn a trapper hat of her own that I thought was great, but did not fit my extra-large hat size. She had the pattern and some scraps of rather expensive fabric laying around, so I decided to take a stab at it.
The pattern I used came from this tutorial. As you can see from the pieces it's not exceptionally challenging. The "cut on fold" means to cut two layers of fabric and the marked edge is the fold. I had to add about 1/4" to each side of the "Hat Side" piece (total 1" circumference) and 1" to the height of the Hat Side and Hat Top piece to fit me. If you knew what you were doing, you could probably finish this hat in 2-3 hours. I do not know what I'm doing, so it took longer than that.
I used the Harris tweed for the lining of the upper interior plus a layer of Thinsulate. The fur goes on the inside of the ear flaps plus the forehead flap. The cast iron plate on the left side is a pattern weight which prevents the paper from moving around as you're marking chalk on the fabric.
First step is to sew the two "domes." The long rectangle piece goes in the middle and you have to manhandle the two arches pinned along the length. I start with the two corners, then the exact middle, then fill the rest trying to keep the two parts flat to each other.
"Always sew good side to good side" really helped me keep the order of operations straight. Try to envision how the seams will look when flipped inside out to make sure you, for example, attach the ear flaps on the correct side of the domes (ask me how I know).
Pictured are the two hat layers before the final assembly.
Generally these trapper hats have some kind of attachment to tie them flaps down or up. I had some scrap leather laying around so I dyed it chocolate brown and hand sewed a loop to the inside of the ear flap.
Final assembly was a little tricky; you have to sew the two parts together inside-out. I left the backside of one ear flap unsewn so you can manhandle the whole hat through it. The last step is to hand sew a blind stitch to cover the hole and you're done. Rather than describe it I embedded a video below.
The next day we had a snowstorm and there was plenty of snow blowing and shoveling to do. I can say the hat worked wonderfully; it's probably the warmest that I own (too warm, in fact, for working in 20F+). The material I used were expensive scrap left over from my wife's other projects, but there's no reason this could not be done significantly cheaper. The Thinsulate is inexpensive and I think adds a great deal of warmth, so I would not skip that.
This was my first real attempt at apparel sewing, so if you're on the fence I can manage it, you can too.